From The Blog
Go Big or Go Home
In 2008, a very funny thing happened. As the recession skyrocketed to impeding economic doom and gloom for the world, the message on the runway was that of grandiose delusion accompanied by sparkle and shine, glitter and glamour. The irony in this dressing rising simultaneously with the plummet of the 401k was one that was not lost on the fashion flock. Ushering in this new reverse-psychological way of dressing was Balmain’s Christophe Decarnin. Balmain, known for exuberantly-expensive frayed denim and sparkly skyhigh minis with price-tags upwards of twenty thousand dollars, was presenting a counterintuitive response opposite to the economic landscape: ‘go big or go home’. Every item was a jolt of youthful joie de vivre and socialites and celebs bought into the Balmain movement like a puppy-dogs to a bone. Balmain was not an It-brand, it had become THE brand. However, just as the recession haze lifted and the economy started to stabilize itself a little bit more, the rise of a brand with a new message erupted on to the scene: the rebirth of French label Celine under the new creative direction of design mastermind Phoebe Philo. Phoebe churned a super-minimal yet fabulous collection sending hordes of women into the stores to snap up the cream leather dresses and impeccably-tailored trousers. The economy’s influence on dressing was more profound than anyone could have expected. And now as 2012 approaches, news of global recession is often blaring in the headlines bringing about the same sparkly shiny exuberance of 2008. The spring runways were abounding with this sparkly, over-the-top dressing with many women wearing sequins and shiny silver body-hugging dresses with sky-high heels as early as 11 AM to catch the fashion shows. Dolce and Gabbana infused the sensuality of Sicilian style with crystalline couture detailing, as seen in the parade of jewel-encrusted bodysuits that were equal parts showgirl and Sofia Loren. Dolce and Gabbana were not the only Italian label endorsing this idea. Gucci’s best look, arguably, was the sequined zebra cocktail dress shimmying with gold fringe rocked by quintessential Gucci girl Natasha Poly. And let’s not forget about Versace, never one to choose somber dressing over SAMBA dressing. The turquoise gown donned by Arizona Muse on the runway, with a crystal-encrusted belt was both beautiful and bold. Will Italian women embrace the glitterati or stick to the classic pattern of understated dressing? It is a case-by-case basis, I guess. Something I do not guess is the amount of editorial play these looks will get in international Vogue’s.
- Matthew Murray, official blogger for Fashion Italian Style
